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WHOLE
HOUSE BOOSTING
Boosting
the pressure of your mains water supply
We
are frequently asked if it is possible to use a pump to boost the
pressure of a poor mains water supply.
The
simple answer is yes technically it is not difficult and requires
only a "Jet" type pump like the JCR
models which have an internal arrangement that allows them to operate
with the limited flow of water available from the main. Controlled
by a FLO-SENSE
switch (or BRIO
controller if you have a combi-boiler) this would give automatic
pressure boosting.
This
system increases the pressure at the taps but cannot significantly
increase the water flow. It may however give a higher flow at the
taps by overcoming the losses caused by the pipework within the
property and the taps etc themselves.
There
is however another major problem.
The
Water Bye-laws in the UK do not permit the direct connection
of a pump to the mains supply. Even a pressure washer bought
from the Garden Centre to clean your block paving is technically
illegal. The correct way to solve the problem of low water pressure
is therefore to install a break tank.
The
purpose of a break tank is to catch the water from the mains, and
the faster it fills, the smaller the tank can be. The ideal position
is close to the incoming main (stoptap) and as low down as possible
- the greater the height, the slower it will fill. It should have
a low pressure or fast fill ballvalve to minimise restriction to
flow and be fitted with the manufacturers lid and vent kit.
To
work out the size you must measure the incoming flowrate and compare
this with your rate of use. Measure the flow you get from the kitchen
tap (or the nearest tap to the main) turned on fully - time the
filling of a container of known size to get the flowrate. To work
out use it may help to know that a power-shower will use about 10
Litres/min, an electric shower about 5 L/min, and a tap 5 - 10 L/min
depending on size. Filling the bath may be the biggest problem
if your cold bath tap is connected to the mains. Maximum use in
an average house is rarely more than 20 L/min. and then only for
short periods. The bigger the tank you can fit, the better.
You
may wish to consider taking a drinking supply directly to the kitchen
tap so that there is no risk of drinking water becoming contaminated
in a large storage tank
The
outlet from the tank to the pump should be 22mm min. diameter and
sited on the side near the bottom (to allow any silt or other debris
to fall to the bottom of the tank and not enter the pump) and be
away from the fill ball valve. The pump should be positioned near
to and below the tank, and sharp bends in the pipe should be avoided,
especially immediately before the pump. Fit a good quality "full
bore" valve (quarter turn lever ball valves are ideal) before the
pump for maintenance purposes. The pump will require a spur fused
at 5A.
Pump
model 3CRm80
was designed for domestic water supplies and normally has the best
characteristics for the application (These pumps are ideal for replacing
Aquapower pumps or Superpro pumps). It is also possible to use
the JCR
jet pumps, particularly if the pipework in the building is known
to be restricting. Check to see if there are any devices on the
system that have a pressure limitation (Combi boilers often have
a pressure relief system set at around 3 bar) as this will affect
the choice of pump, and may require a pressure reducing valve to
be fitted.
The
BRIO
controller fits on the top of the pump and makes the system fully
automatic. It requires no adjustment or service once installed.
It also incorporates "dry run protection" and will stop the pump
before damage occurs should the tank run dry for any reason.
If
you would like to discuss your system or require help in selecting
the best pump please call us on 0845 130
3300
to discuss the options or e-mail us using sales@pumpexpress.co.uk |